To KL & Home

Day 21 – Sunday 29^th December

To KL

Another day spent on a plane. It started at the airport with the now all-too familiar game of Malaysia Air making a balls-up of my pre-reserved seating. After the usual phone calls and tapping of keyboards it was eventually resolved. Fortunately we were first in the check-in queue so the seats hadn’t been given to anyone else. Unfortunately neither the passport-reader or the printer of our check-in clerk’s system was behaving so it still took around 30 minutes to do something that should have taken five.

Apart from that NZ airports impressed – rapid and friendly progress through security and passport control. Even the plane was one time. Despite having about 8 feet of leg room, the Boeing 777 is quite an old plane – the result that it seems to creek and groan in any turbulence. The leg-room is also a magnetic space for toilet queues and people stretching their legs; which regularly pisses me off – maybe I should go and tread on their feet and peer through their windows and see if they get the message. To make things worse my in-flight entertainment system didn’t work at all. Tomos managed to break his 4 hours into the flight. So thank goodness for iPads and pre-loaded entertainment. I can recommend Rick Gervais’ stand-up Science for a few laughs but not for the faint-hearted.

The food and service on the plane does make up for it a little, but a ten hour flight is a ten hour flight. Hard work with no telly I’m afraid.  Whilst staring up at the screen showing our position at some point with hours to go I noticed the distance left was 3400Km – around what we drove in NZ. It’s further than I thought if a plane takes 4 hours to do it.

The view our room greeted us with

Immigration was once again easy enough and we were pre-booked for a pickup, which looked after our train and posh taxi transfer to the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in the heart of the new city – KLCC – right under the Petronas towers.

The hotel is very luxurious and after the long flight a welcome sight – two adjoining rooms – kids could be sent away but not be so far away. After all that flying I expected to sleep very well. Actually just like the Novotel it was not the best night’s sleep. Ironic that the best sleep so far this trip has been on the campervan bunks!

Day 22-23 Kuala Lumpur Monday & Tuesday

With body clocks still five hours ahead of KL it wasn’t surprising that we were awake early and hungry. The Mandarin claims to have the best breakfast buffet in KL. I beg to differ – the Sama-Sama had been better. But it was still extensive (and expensive). Still no sign of bacon butties – so when in Rome – chicken curry and rice followed by croissants and pastries – very bizarre.

The Indoor Coaster covering three floors

Then we hit the town and shopping was in order. The chosen mall was the Times Square Mall for the sole reason that it boasts an indoor theme park complete with spiralling and looping roller coaster. Basically a crèche for the kids and I whilst Sarah hit more shops. It came as quite a shock after NZ – the place was very busy. Malaysians share the British love of shopping. After the peace of NZ it was quite a cultural shock.

After the Mall it was back to the hotel to discover the delights of the infinity pool and Jacuzzi. We then headed next door to yet another heaving mall – the KLCC mall for me to get in an even worse mood. This was followed by a late tea of US fast food – sorry my stomach wasn’t up to anything else – time for the Egyptian tablets again.

The Petronas Twin Towers

Tuesday we had booked a visit to the famous twin towers. It was just as well that we had pre-booked as tickets on the day well out by 8am! We would never by up and out by such an extreme time. The visit

included the sky bridge between the towers on floor 41, and then the observation desk on 82. It was strange looking down on everything else in a very high rise city.

In the afternoon we headed for the China town market.

The Infamous China Town Market

It was a busy place of fake-branded goods, hookers and great food. We all ate a good Chinese deal for around £2 a head. Then it was back to the hotel to prepare for the festivities of new year’s eve in Kuala Lumpur. New year is quite a big deal over here – from about 8pm car horns were sounding – it really couldn’t get any louder at midnight but it did thanks to the firework display in the KLCC park in front of the Petronas towers. We actually joined the festivities in the hotel having booked a real party! The blacks and silver ball meant silver and black decor and dress – inc. party hats – just as well as we had the clothes we stood up in. It was

another multicultural food-fest, we even had a drinks package. Unfortunately their idea of quality beer was Carlsberg. We made it past midnight and then tried to sleep with a riot on outside.

Wednesday – New Year

It was time to move to the airport ready for tomorrow morning’s flight. Fortunately were booked back into the Sama Sama for this and so it was an afternoon transfer here by taxi. Beforehand it was one more tourist trip to the Batu caves. Basically the caves are used as Hindu shrines. They are also accessed via 272 very steep steps – fun in the sun and humidity. Tomos was pulled aside by a japanese family, whose daughters wanted their photo with him You also had to hang on to your belongings as the resident monkeys are always on the lookout for anything to steal. Today being a bank holiday they were very well fed and were settling for nothing less than bananas. They discarded the skins anywhere – not good on these stairs! 

So back at the Sama Sama Hotel at the airport in KL. Checked in online for tomorrow’s flight – for the first time hassle-free – but we’re not on the plane yet. I could bore myself silly and anyone reading this silly but it’ll go like this – got on plane(s), arrived home. So I won’t bother.

Thanks for reading.

Things I Learnt in Malaysia:

• They do new year’s eve big-style
• They relax by going shopping in big shopping malls.
• They have lots of big shopping malls
• The last two statements mean there is an element of insanity. See what happens when you don’t drink.
• Breakfast is a nightmare unless you have an International hotel's buffet available.
• Just now, having asked what the arrow on the ceiling meant, I've been informed by Tomos and Sarah, that every hotel room and even the A380 had an arrow pointing to Mecca

Day 20 – Saturday 28th December Bye Bye Camper

Kaikoura’s Last Trick

It has rained with little let-up for the last 48 hours. But as we left Kaikoura this morning it was definitely higher cloud. The Whale Watching air operation had held us seats “just in case” on the morning trip at 0900. We were doubtful but called in on the off-chance. When I went in there was no sign of any staff – because they were preparing aircraft! Apparently it was all on, as there was a window in the weather. By the time they had finished briefing us that window was slammed in our faces as it pissed it down again! We and another couple were told to wait; they were quietly optimistic. At 0930 we were airborne – it all happened very quickly!

What we didn't see

Of course Kaikoura had the last laugh. They have a 95% success rate at spotting whales. Guess who the 5% were today!? Bloody typical. We did though have a fun flight and we did see the biggest pod of “Dusky Dolphins” we have ever seen – literally hundreds of them!

We then departed for Christchurch and a miserable drive through the rain. A stop for lunch and Sarah to pack and before we knew it we had said goodbye to the camper and were sat in departures of Christchurch airport for the flight to Auckland.

A moment of reflection here. We had clocked 3491Km (2,169 miles). Land End to John O’Groats is 874 miles; so more than two and a half times that distance. This was good going according to our check-in clerk when we returned the van. Glad we had an unlimited package! I won’t miss the driving; we will miss the open road.

To Auckland

Fellow Air NZ Passengers

Domestic flights are a breeze here. I scanned a bar code, printed boarding cards and dropped bags on a conveyor belt. Security was empty and actually had cheerful staff. You can take liquids on internal flights and we did also this without at any point showing ID. We simply scanned our boarding card as we boarded. That was it - job done. A month old Airbus A320 whisked us up to Auckland in little over an hour. The flight safety video was rather different. Rather than tell you about it, follow this link... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9x6jufB2Dg - no go on - do it...

Then on to the Novotel at the airport for all sorts of wild luxuries – baths – big soft beds and agoraphobic space compared to the campervan!

And so to bed. Just another 12 hours on a plane tomorrow L

What I learned today:

• Flying can be fun and stress free. As long as you're in NZ.
• Whales can dive for 45 minutes at a time. That sometimes is not good on a 30 min spotting trip.

Day 19 – Friday 27th December RAINY DAYS & MONDAYS

Krappy-Kaikoura Again

Ask people who have travelled around this country for their highlights; the chances are Milford Sound and Kaikoura will be up there. Once again this place has thwarted my best efforts. I was so determined not to be blown out today that I also booked with “Wings Over Whales” (light aircraft) at 1pm before our scheduled boat trip at 4pm. I phoned both companies at 8am. Wings said they were flying but it could change. The boat said their morning trip was cancelled but were expecting to go in the afternoon.

Today's Summary

As we approached after the two hour drive from Christchurch it became apparent that both were being “optimistic” – there was low cloud and it was raining. It didn’t seem windy but as soon as we hit the coat and saw the surf crashing in our hearts sank. That was around the time the cell phone rang with “wings” saying flying was off. We called in the boat company. Sure enough they had cancelled the whole day. We got a refund. Big deal.

We checked back into the camp site had lunch and then hit the outdoor pool and hot tubs in very UK like miserable rain. Later on it stopped and we walked into town and aimlessly browsed shops, had a coffee then headed back along the beach. It got really wet then and we returned to the camper soaked. Good job the place has tumble dryers.

So there we go. Nothing for it but to fire up the wok, eat drink and try to be merry. Tomorrow we head back to Christchurch and drop off the camper. This time tomorrow with any luck we’ll be in the Auckland Airport Novotel enjoying real beds before the final phase of the trip – operation Kuala Lumpur. One thing is for sure. It won’t be cold there. It does of course have torrential downpours. Seldom for long ;)

Thing I learned today

• When plan A has failed. Try plan B & C. But at some point accept that some things aren’t meant to be. Smile and move on.

Day 18 – Thursday 26th December

Christchurch

True to fashion, things have been a little off plan of late. We were supposed to hit Christchurch tomorrow for our last night in the van before flying back to Auckland on Saturday afternoon. So firstly we are a day early – but this is to try and get us another day in Kaikoura tomorrow for attempt 2 at whale watching so that’s OK. The other thing was that a certain old friend moved out (or it back) here about 15 years ago. A roguish sort that you’d expect me to get on with called Martin Hayes. Unfortunately I let slip that we were in the country a couple of weeks ago and he promptly ensured he left it within 2 hrs of us landing in Auckland. Of course he claims this was all bad planning and that it was his 50^th birthday and was off to Colorado for the skiing but I’m not so sure. Martin and Lisa live in Christchurch. They had escaped so that was our free pitch plan out of the window. 

The Cold Room - Snow time!

We therefore had to rely on the guide books. Firstly we checked in early – around noon at the camper site and then went off to the airport to visit the “International Antarctic Centre”. It is from Christchurch that the USA, NZ and Italy (but only in the summer) send out their teams to the Antarctic. I expect the UK utilises one of the other colonies – Andrea? It is also bang next door to where we need to drop off the camper on Saturday so that was an unpleasant reminder that time is running out. It has a visitor centre type attraction – it had 4D Antarctic cinema = 3D + water squirting at you at times, a walk through museum of Antarctic exploration, more penguins and a whole exhibit in real -10C temperatures with and added wind storm every 20 minutes. So we got to play in the snow on Boxing Day in the Southern hemisphere. It also had some all-terrain amphibious cat vehicles used in Antarctica that they took you for rides up, down, around in and floating across water. The kids did that twice. Sarah and I did it just the once thank you very much.

This afternoon we took a taxi and then rode the vintage tram through the city centre and then had a look around. You will remember the news of the earth quake some three years ago. But do you remember there were actually two events? The second killed 175 people and has pretty much wiped out the whole city

Vintage tram on the re-opened section of track - "Cathedral junction"

centre. What makes it more strange is that the suburbs all seem fine – just the main centre of the city which seems to be recovering from a massive air raid. It shocked us all really.  The place is a bit of a ghost town. It was a sobering experience. They are doing their best to bounce back. A whole shopping mall has been created from shipping containers for instance – so good luck to them all. I think the programme done by James Nesbitt on New Zealand shown on Christmas day covers it all well I wonder if you saw it? Hopefully it is waiting for us on the Sky box!

So that’s our all too brief visit to Christchurch next time it will be just to catch the first plane North. Tomorrow we try Kaikoura – again!

What I learned today:

• The Italians have a team in Antarctica – but only in the summertime
• Christchurch has a lot of rebuilding to do. They will do it.

Day 17 – Wednesday 25th December CHRISTMAS

Christmas in Timaru

Today we moved a short distance (about a 100 miles) up the coast towards Christchurch which we will see tomorrow. The city of Timaru is a container port. It is still prettier than most ports. Most places are closed but not all. On the way up here there would have been no problem at all getting provisions – small supermarkets or diesel (all seem to have credit card pumps). We had our earliest check-in to date at the camper site at 2pm. I had pre booked and expected to find a note telling us which pitch to use. But I had to ring for attention and the receptionist / owner came down. I felt guilty with it being Christmas but she was quite happy.

Merry Christmas from the Wood Family

I got worried when I saw no BBQ area on the site map. I asked and was issued with our own BBQ unit to have at our pitch – marvellous. The weather is changeable but not the hurricane of the UK at the moment so we had hazy sunshine for our BBQ Christmas lunch with not a sprout in sight. I couldn't decide on wine or beer so had both – it’s Christmas after all. So just like it will be in the UK at 4pm on Christmas day I feel like a snooze.

So that’s it really. I hope everyone I know has a great Christmas and that the winds have eased. After all the winds will be back once you have eaten those evil sprouts.

What I learned today:

• Chatting via txt to someone when their time of day is 3am and they are pissed means it will not make much sense. Doubly so when you are trying to do this in Welsh with an auto correct in English.

Day 15 & 16 - Queenstown to the East Coast

Day 15 – Monday 23^rd December

Queenstown to the Catlins

A day of two halves with a ‘Gory’ bit in the middle!

For the first time this trip we left a camper site on site – before 10am in this case. The first bit of excitement was the site’s dump station which was literally driving on to a grate and opening the valves! Relax – only for the waste water tank. We then headed for the Queenstown’s ‘Sky Gondola’ that took us to the summit overlooking town. At the top of the gondola we met Hâf – she had a name badge that said that ,and in line with all staff, a flag denoting nationality – she had the ‘Draig Goch’ of Wales. She was from Ruthin and pleasantries were exchanged in the language of heaven.

Not a lot of effort required on this sledge run

The summit has some fantastic views, and also a mountain bike track back down (they bring them up the cable car). Also a bungy jump and high swing. For the less adventurous the ‘luge ride’ – a sledge on wheels down a fast track on the mountain side. When you got back to the bottom (the top cable car station in this case) there was a sky lift to take you and sledges back up. The kids and I had great fun on this. Sarah opted to be photographer and hopefully captured the moment. We then descended and were off on our travels again.

We were heading South for the rugged coastline of the Catlins. This area is the Southernmost point of South Island. Our Land’s end to Auckland’s John O’Groats – except this is the Southern hemisphere and you have to make the weather the other way around. It was.

On the way we had our gory bit as we re-provisioned in the town of Gore. The supermarket was busy – the manager was out making sure only customers were parking there. Something to do with this public holiday on Wednesday I guess. BUT here’s the thing. Quiet aisles – no pushing, shoving and no queue for the checkout tills. Apparently it gets a little busier tomorrow – yes I know Christmas Eve. Even so it is just so much lower key. I have been pondering this one. I think it’s because in the Northern hemisphere it’s winter, dark and generally crap.  Down here it’s summer so Christmas is a special day, yes. It just isn’t one the country stops for a fortnight for (though it is kid’s summer hols now). I can cope with Christmas here.

We then headed to our camp site at Curio bay via a lighthouse at a place called Waipapa point. Apparently this is the southernmost lighthouse in NZ. South stack is better!

So Curio Bay – we are camped in some reed grass/cactus type plants that give us all a generous pitch. It also has power. That’s where the luxuries end. This is described as a “basic camp site”. I have just seen the toilet block. I agree with the description.

Camp Pitch - privacy by nature

Neither is there a mobile signal let alone WI-FI so this update will happen when we are next in civilisation. So why the hell are we here you wonder. Blame Scott’s book. This is a “Jurassic Playground with Friendly mini Dolphins”. So the two nature lovers of the family are happy. They have seen them. You could swim with them. Water is 12C – I think not. It also has an evening penguin parade – “the best time to explore Curio Bay is between 6-8pm when the resident colony of Yellow-eyed penguins come ashore”. These are very rare – not your common as much Falkland Islands varieties Andrea Clausen... What Scott fails to tell us is that the colony size is 8. Yes EIGHT – no zeroes after it. We have seen half of them already. But you know what – you’ve seen one – you’ve seen ‘em all. Yellow eyed penguins & Hector’s Dolphins – TICK! Tomorrow morning we may also get the resident sea lions around us.

Roughly 12% of the colony

Rest assured other overnight stops will be hot & cold showers, WIFI and BBQ areas. The seal huggers will be happy – we are stopping to see some boulders! There are also some great ‘Cathedral’ sea caves that you can visit for the two hours at low water. I have no idea if we will get to see these. Tomorrow is another day.

What I learned today:

• A penguin colony can mean 8 penguins
• Pre-Christmas supermarkets here are not a battle-ground
• Curio Bay – has Hector’s Dolphins, Sea-lions, Penguins, a prettified Jurassic forest but no bloody mobile signal. 

Day 15 – Tueday 24^th December

Seals & Boulders

It has been a wild day in South Island’s South. The weather was certainly reminiscent of home. Though by now (7pm local) the sun is out and once again it will be dinner on the patio – well under the awning. We left Curio Bay (toilets twinned with Soweto) and followed roughly the SE coast around to the east coast proper ending up in a township called Hamden. We have a full tank of diesel although after todays 3.5 hr stint in the wild weather it will be a short Christmas day hop to Timaru – then in striking distance of Christchurch on boxing day.

There is not a lot to report. The main aim of the day was looking at some boulders on a beach. I kid you not. They are egg shaped and unusual I’ll grant you; but they were just big rocks. A couple of miles up from the boulders - our camp ground. It has hot showers and a phone signal.

We stopped for coffee on route at a township called Balclutha. I have liked most towns but I don’t think they get many tourists in this one. A mediocre coffee and cake later and we were out of there. In Dunedin I couldn’t believe my eyes the road announced start of motorway. Some three miles of dual carriageway later and it was back to ‘A’ road – straight through the city centre. Traffic wasn’t too bad and we came out the other side into some seriously bad mist. It was all very Scottish just like the settlers (Dunedin is the Gaelic for Edinburgh).

Kids found ways to make them fun

Another hour or so and it was our next stop – Shag Point! Always a good facebook check-in is Shag Point. But it was a wild outcrop of rock where we had our closest encounter with fur seals – you could walk right up to them if you really wanted to be attacked that much (many were guarding pups). A few photos were taken then on to the famous “Moeraki Boulders” – egg shaped rocks on a beach. Interesting, but not that interesting. Good for photos.

Thing I learned today:

• Motorway shouldn’t be interpreted too literally. Really there aren't any.

Day 15 – Sunday 22nd December

Milford Sound & Queenstown

Well after three weather-related disasters we were rather nervous about today. But we awoke to sunshine

He didn't let me...

through the windows and blue skies. A call to ‘Air Milford’ confirmed it was on, and that a taxi would collect us from the site at 11.10am. By 12pm we were airborne and headed for Milford Sound. Milford Sound is at the end of a very long spectacular road – one way in and same way out. I have driven enough spectacular roads on this trip, and doing it this way did not disappoint. Keep an eye on facebook and I will post a video of us flying out of Milford. The flight is basically over and around the Southern Alps. At times the mountains seemed alarming close to the side of the plane, we were literally flying between them. There was

The Southern Alps

still snow on the high peaks. Then a descent from the coast down the Milford Sound. A fly past the airfield before a sharp U-turn and down to land. The best bit – I got to be co-pilot and had the best seat in the house!

Mitre Peak - though the Maori have a better name...

Sterling Waterfall Milford Sound

Milford Sound is on pretty much everyone’s must see of New Zealand list. Just google the place and check out all the photos. It is stunning. The only thing there really is a boat dock where we were taken on a ‘nature cruise’ – out to the Tasman sea and back, passing the peaks which rise to over a mile high straight out of the water. Add to that several waterfalls and tree lined cliffs. Most days of our lives we forget. The ones we truly live we remember. We all felt very alive today.

The return flight took another route. Once again I bagged the front seat. Once again there were fantastic views and true mountain flying. We were back in the Campground by 5pm.

We had a brief look around town. I am not sure what to make of Queenstown. It is a stunning place. It is also the “adventure capital” with many companies trying to get your $$$s. Bungy jumping, free fall parachuting, rafting etc. This draws a certain crowd. The bars are noisy and packed with ‘gap year’ sorts – many in bandages – all this adventure is obviously not without risk. So some of this place is any UK University town in welcome week – permanently! I won’t miss that bit.

Tomorrow we will take the gentle cable car to the summit above us before heading southwards to the coast. Apparently there is some sort of public holiday next week and all the Kiwis head for Queenstown. So we will be somewhere else.

Things I learned today:

• Milford Sound is not really a sound but a true glacial Fjord
• They have chavs in NZ