Day 20 – Saturday 28th December Bye Bye Camper

Kaikoura’s Last Trick

It has rained with little let-up for the last 48 hours. But as we left Kaikoura this morning it was definitely higher cloud. The Whale Watching air operation had held us seats “just in case” on the morning trip at 0900. We were doubtful but called in on the off-chance. When I went in there was no sign of any staff – because they were preparing aircraft! Apparently it was all on, as there was a window in the weather. By the time they had finished briefing us that window was slammed in our faces as it pissed it down again! We and another couple were told to wait; they were quietly optimistic. At 0930 we were airborne – it all happened very quickly!

What we didn't see

Of course Kaikoura had the last laugh. They have a 95% success rate at spotting whales. Guess who the 5% were today!? Bloody typical. We did though have a fun flight and we did see the biggest pod of “Dusky Dolphins” we have ever seen – literally hundreds of them!

We then departed for Christchurch and a miserable drive through the rain. A stop for lunch and Sarah to pack and before we knew it we had said goodbye to the camper and were sat in departures of Christchurch airport for the flight to Auckland.

A moment of reflection here. We had clocked 3491Km (2,169 miles). Land End to John O’Groats is 874 miles; so more than two and a half times that distance. This was good going according to our check-in clerk when we returned the van. Glad we had an unlimited package! I won’t miss the driving; we will miss the open road.

To Auckland

Fellow Air NZ Passengers

Domestic flights are a breeze here. I scanned a bar code, printed boarding cards and dropped bags on a conveyor belt. Security was empty and actually had cheerful staff. You can take liquids on internal flights and we did also this without at any point showing ID. We simply scanned our boarding card as we boarded. That was it - job done. A month old Airbus A320 whisked us up to Auckland in little over an hour. The flight safety video was rather different. Rather than tell you about it, follow this link... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9x6jufB2Dg - no go on - do it...

Then on to the Novotel at the airport for all sorts of wild luxuries – baths – big soft beds and agoraphobic space compared to the campervan!

And so to bed. Just another 12 hours on a plane tomorrow L

What I learned today:

• Flying can be fun and stress free. As long as you're in NZ.
• Whales can dive for 45 minutes at a time. That sometimes is not good on a 30 min spotting trip.

Day 19 – Friday 27th December RAINY DAYS & MONDAYS

Krappy-Kaikoura Again

Ask people who have travelled around this country for their highlights; the chances are Milford Sound and Kaikoura will be up there. Once again this place has thwarted my best efforts. I was so determined not to be blown out today that I also booked with “Wings Over Whales” (light aircraft) at 1pm before our scheduled boat trip at 4pm. I phoned both companies at 8am. Wings said they were flying but it could change. The boat said their morning trip was cancelled but were expecting to go in the afternoon.

Today's Summary

As we approached after the two hour drive from Christchurch it became apparent that both were being “optimistic” – there was low cloud and it was raining. It didn’t seem windy but as soon as we hit the coat and saw the surf crashing in our hearts sank. That was around the time the cell phone rang with “wings” saying flying was off. We called in the boat company. Sure enough they had cancelled the whole day. We got a refund. Big deal.

We checked back into the camp site had lunch and then hit the outdoor pool and hot tubs in very UK like miserable rain. Later on it stopped and we walked into town and aimlessly browsed shops, had a coffee then headed back along the beach. It got really wet then and we returned to the camper soaked. Good job the place has tumble dryers.

So there we go. Nothing for it but to fire up the wok, eat drink and try to be merry. Tomorrow we head back to Christchurch and drop off the camper. This time tomorrow with any luck we’ll be in the Auckland Airport Novotel enjoying real beds before the final phase of the trip – operation Kuala Lumpur. One thing is for sure. It won’t be cold there. It does of course have torrential downpours. Seldom for long ;)

Thing I learned today

• When plan A has failed. Try plan B & C. But at some point accept that some things aren’t meant to be. Smile and move on.

Day 18 – Thursday 26th December

Christchurch

True to fashion, things have been a little off plan of late. We were supposed to hit Christchurch tomorrow for our last night in the van before flying back to Auckland on Saturday afternoon. So firstly we are a day early – but this is to try and get us another day in Kaikoura tomorrow for attempt 2 at whale watching so that’s OK. The other thing was that a certain old friend moved out (or it back) here about 15 years ago. A roguish sort that you’d expect me to get on with called Martin Hayes. Unfortunately I let slip that we were in the country a couple of weeks ago and he promptly ensured he left it within 2 hrs of us landing in Auckland. Of course he claims this was all bad planning and that it was his 50^th birthday and was off to Colorado for the skiing but I’m not so sure. Martin and Lisa live in Christchurch. They had escaped so that was our free pitch plan out of the window. 

The Cold Room - Snow time!

We therefore had to rely on the guide books. Firstly we checked in early – around noon at the camper site and then went off to the airport to visit the “International Antarctic Centre”. It is from Christchurch that the USA, NZ and Italy (but only in the summer) send out their teams to the Antarctic. I expect the UK utilises one of the other colonies – Andrea? It is also bang next door to where we need to drop off the camper on Saturday so that was an unpleasant reminder that time is running out. It has a visitor centre type attraction – it had 4D Antarctic cinema = 3D + water squirting at you at times, a walk through museum of Antarctic exploration, more penguins and a whole exhibit in real -10C temperatures with and added wind storm every 20 minutes. So we got to play in the snow on Boxing Day in the Southern hemisphere. It also had some all-terrain amphibious cat vehicles used in Antarctica that they took you for rides up, down, around in and floating across water. The kids did that twice. Sarah and I did it just the once thank you very much.

This afternoon we took a taxi and then rode the vintage tram through the city centre and then had a look around. You will remember the news of the earth quake some three years ago. But do you remember there were actually two events? The second killed 175 people and has pretty much wiped out the whole city

Vintage tram on the re-opened section of track - "Cathedral junction"

centre. What makes it more strange is that the suburbs all seem fine – just the main centre of the city which seems to be recovering from a massive air raid. It shocked us all really.  The place is a bit of a ghost town. It was a sobering experience. They are doing their best to bounce back. A whole shopping mall has been created from shipping containers for instance – so good luck to them all. I think the programme done by James Nesbitt on New Zealand shown on Christmas day covers it all well I wonder if you saw it? Hopefully it is waiting for us on the Sky box!

So that’s our all too brief visit to Christchurch next time it will be just to catch the first plane North. Tomorrow we try Kaikoura – again!

What I learned today:

• The Italians have a team in Antarctica – but only in the summertime
• Christchurch has a lot of rebuilding to do. They will do it.

Day 17 – Wednesday 25th December CHRISTMAS

Christmas in Timaru

Today we moved a short distance (about a 100 miles) up the coast towards Christchurch which we will see tomorrow. The city of Timaru is a container port. It is still prettier than most ports. Most places are closed but not all. On the way up here there would have been no problem at all getting provisions – small supermarkets or diesel (all seem to have credit card pumps). We had our earliest check-in to date at the camper site at 2pm. I had pre booked and expected to find a note telling us which pitch to use. But I had to ring for attention and the receptionist / owner came down. I felt guilty with it being Christmas but she was quite happy.

Merry Christmas from the Wood Family

I got worried when I saw no BBQ area on the site map. I asked and was issued with our own BBQ unit to have at our pitch – marvellous. The weather is changeable but not the hurricane of the UK at the moment so we had hazy sunshine for our BBQ Christmas lunch with not a sprout in sight. I couldn't decide on wine or beer so had both – it’s Christmas after all. So just like it will be in the UK at 4pm on Christmas day I feel like a snooze.

So that’s it really. I hope everyone I know has a great Christmas and that the winds have eased. After all the winds will be back once you have eaten those evil sprouts.

What I learned today:

• Chatting via txt to someone when their time of day is 3am and they are pissed means it will not make much sense. Doubly so when you are trying to do this in Welsh with an auto correct in English.

Day 15 & 16 - Queenstown to the East Coast

Day 15 – Monday 23^rd December

Queenstown to the Catlins

A day of two halves with a ‘Gory’ bit in the middle!

For the first time this trip we left a camper site on site – before 10am in this case. The first bit of excitement was the site’s dump station which was literally driving on to a grate and opening the valves! Relax – only for the waste water tank. We then headed for the Queenstown’s ‘Sky Gondola’ that took us to the summit overlooking town. At the top of the gondola we met Hâf – she had a name badge that said that ,and in line with all staff, a flag denoting nationality – she had the ‘Draig Goch’ of Wales. She was from Ruthin and pleasantries were exchanged in the language of heaven.

Not a lot of effort required on this sledge run

The summit has some fantastic views, and also a mountain bike track back down (they bring them up the cable car). Also a bungy jump and high swing. For the less adventurous the ‘luge ride’ – a sledge on wheels down a fast track on the mountain side. When you got back to the bottom (the top cable car station in this case) there was a sky lift to take you and sledges back up. The kids and I had great fun on this. Sarah opted to be photographer and hopefully captured the moment. We then descended and were off on our travels again.

We were heading South for the rugged coastline of the Catlins. This area is the Southernmost point of South Island. Our Land’s end to Auckland’s John O’Groats – except this is the Southern hemisphere and you have to make the weather the other way around. It was.

On the way we had our gory bit as we re-provisioned in the town of Gore. The supermarket was busy – the manager was out making sure only customers were parking there. Something to do with this public holiday on Wednesday I guess. BUT here’s the thing. Quiet aisles – no pushing, shoving and no queue for the checkout tills. Apparently it gets a little busier tomorrow – yes I know Christmas Eve. Even so it is just so much lower key. I have been pondering this one. I think it’s because in the Northern hemisphere it’s winter, dark and generally crap.  Down here it’s summer so Christmas is a special day, yes. It just isn’t one the country stops for a fortnight for (though it is kid’s summer hols now). I can cope with Christmas here.

We then headed to our camp site at Curio bay via a lighthouse at a place called Waipapa point. Apparently this is the southernmost lighthouse in NZ. South stack is better!

So Curio Bay – we are camped in some reed grass/cactus type plants that give us all a generous pitch. It also has power. That’s where the luxuries end. This is described as a “basic camp site”. I have just seen the toilet block. I agree with the description.

Camp Pitch - privacy by nature

Neither is there a mobile signal let alone WI-FI so this update will happen when we are next in civilisation. So why the hell are we here you wonder. Blame Scott’s book. This is a “Jurassic Playground with Friendly mini Dolphins”. So the two nature lovers of the family are happy. They have seen them. You could swim with them. Water is 12C – I think not. It also has an evening penguin parade – “the best time to explore Curio Bay is between 6-8pm when the resident colony of Yellow-eyed penguins come ashore”. These are very rare – not your common as much Falkland Islands varieties Andrea Clausen... What Scott fails to tell us is that the colony size is 8. Yes EIGHT – no zeroes after it. We have seen half of them already. But you know what – you’ve seen one – you’ve seen ‘em all. Yellow eyed penguins & Hector’s Dolphins – TICK! Tomorrow morning we may also get the resident sea lions around us.

Roughly 12% of the colony

Rest assured other overnight stops will be hot & cold showers, WIFI and BBQ areas. The seal huggers will be happy – we are stopping to see some boulders! There are also some great ‘Cathedral’ sea caves that you can visit for the two hours at low water. I have no idea if we will get to see these. Tomorrow is another day.

What I learned today:

• A penguin colony can mean 8 penguins
• Pre-Christmas supermarkets here are not a battle-ground
• Curio Bay – has Hector’s Dolphins, Sea-lions, Penguins, a prettified Jurassic forest but no bloody mobile signal. 

Day 15 – Tueday 24^th December

Seals & Boulders

It has been a wild day in South Island’s South. The weather was certainly reminiscent of home. Though by now (7pm local) the sun is out and once again it will be dinner on the patio – well under the awning. We left Curio Bay (toilets twinned with Soweto) and followed roughly the SE coast around to the east coast proper ending up in a township called Hamden. We have a full tank of diesel although after todays 3.5 hr stint in the wild weather it will be a short Christmas day hop to Timaru – then in striking distance of Christchurch on boxing day.

There is not a lot to report. The main aim of the day was looking at some boulders on a beach. I kid you not. They are egg shaped and unusual I’ll grant you; but they were just big rocks. A couple of miles up from the boulders - our camp ground. It has hot showers and a phone signal.

We stopped for coffee on route at a township called Balclutha. I have liked most towns but I don’t think they get many tourists in this one. A mediocre coffee and cake later and we were out of there. In Dunedin I couldn’t believe my eyes the road announced start of motorway. Some three miles of dual carriageway later and it was back to ‘A’ road – straight through the city centre. Traffic wasn’t too bad and we came out the other side into some seriously bad mist. It was all very Scottish just like the settlers (Dunedin is the Gaelic for Edinburgh).

Kids found ways to make them fun

Another hour or so and it was our next stop – Shag Point! Always a good facebook check-in is Shag Point. But it was a wild outcrop of rock where we had our closest encounter with fur seals – you could walk right up to them if you really wanted to be attacked that much (many were guarding pups). A few photos were taken then on to the famous “Moeraki Boulders” – egg shaped rocks on a beach. Interesting, but not that interesting. Good for photos.

Thing I learned today:

• Motorway shouldn’t be interpreted too literally. Really there aren't any.

Day 15 – Sunday 22nd December

Milford Sound & Queenstown

Well after three weather-related disasters we were rather nervous about today. But we awoke to sunshine

He didn't let me...

through the windows and blue skies. A call to ‘Air Milford’ confirmed it was on, and that a taxi would collect us from the site at 11.10am. By 12pm we were airborne and headed for Milford Sound. Milford Sound is at the end of a very long spectacular road – one way in and same way out. I have driven enough spectacular roads on this trip, and doing it this way did not disappoint. Keep an eye on facebook and I will post a video of us flying out of Milford. The flight is basically over and around the Southern Alps. At times the mountains seemed alarming close to the side of the plane, we were literally flying between them. There was

The Southern Alps

still snow on the high peaks. Then a descent from the coast down the Milford Sound. A fly past the airfield before a sharp U-turn and down to land. The best bit – I got to be co-pilot and had the best seat in the house!

Mitre Peak - though the Maori have a better name...

Sterling Waterfall Milford Sound

Milford Sound is on pretty much everyone’s must see of New Zealand list. Just google the place and check out all the photos. It is stunning. The only thing there really is a boat dock where we were taken on a ‘nature cruise’ – out to the Tasman sea and back, passing the peaks which rise to over a mile high straight out of the water. Add to that several waterfalls and tree lined cliffs. Most days of our lives we forget. The ones we truly live we remember. We all felt very alive today.

The return flight took another route. Once again I bagged the front seat. Once again there were fantastic views and true mountain flying. We were back in the Campground by 5pm.

We had a brief look around town. I am not sure what to make of Queenstown. It is a stunning place. It is also the “adventure capital” with many companies trying to get your $$$s. Bungy jumping, free fall parachuting, rafting etc. This draws a certain crowd. The bars are noisy and packed with ‘gap year’ sorts – many in bandages – all this adventure is obviously not without risk. So some of this place is any UK University town in welcome week – permanently! I won’t miss that bit.

Tomorrow we will take the gentle cable car to the summit above us before heading southwards to the coast. Apparently there is some sort of public holiday next week and all the Kiwis head for Queenstown. So we will be somewhere else.

Things I learned today:

• Milford Sound is not really a sound but a true glacial Fjord
• They have chavs in NZ 

Day 13-14 The West Coast

Day 13 – Friday 20^th December

Along the West Coast

This won’t get posted today so you will find this posting with another day’s. Because we have been thwarted by the weather again. We left our lovely camp site and within the hour we were heading South down the West coast. Our plan was to hit the credit card hard and get a helicopter over the glaciers and Mount Cook including a snow landing. We booked at the tourist centre (i-site) along the way. We turned up and five minutes later it was all off due to low cloud.

See that glacier needs a good wash

So a rather despondent crew opted for the short but fairly up hill walk to the Fox Glacier which was nice – very scenic and not what we had hoped for L Then drove on to a township called Haast before tomorrow a turn in land over more mountain passes.

So back up plan? Sort of we hope to save a days driving by flying in and out of Milford Sound from Queenstown. We know the weather will be crap tomorrow but we are booked for Sunday when things look better.

Tomorrow then we had for Queenstown via Lake Wanaka. Then a first – two nights overnight at Queenstown meaning a day of no driving!

What I learned today:

• Glaciers are not as white as you imagine at their “snout” – to be honest it was very dirty snow.

Day 14 – Saturday 21^st December AM

The Longest Day

So it’s the longest day. Sorry shortest for most of you. Welcome to Haast twinned with Hotel California.  “You can check out any time you like but you can never leave” You see there are two ways to Haast – the way we came Arthur’s Pass – down the coast and to the South via the Haast Pass towards Queenstown – our next stop. I hope. Every night the pass has been closed while they work on a long standing issue with a

A googled photo of our Nemesis

land slip. Last night the heavens opened and it was monsoon season in Haast. After checking out of the camper site I went to refuel – something you do when you see a garage in these parts – they are rare. The nice lady there told me the road is closed. The detour is 15 hours back the way we came – sod that. Next update is 3pm. It’s mid-day and still raining. So we hope the road slip will be cleared and we get to escape this place. If not then goodness know what next.

PM – We Escape from Haast

I am now lying in my bunk in a rather nice camp site in Queenstown. We had a curry in town for tea – it was excellent. It was washed down with a couple of pints of Kingfisher. Tomorrow the weather forecast is good and we hope to take a scenic flight into the spectacular Milford Sound – which will save a long return drive of around 6 hours. So hopefully our fortunes have changed.

The man at the campsite at Haast let us return to our pitch so we had power and the slowest satellite internet connection in the World. We used this to check for road updates and the kids watched videos on the TV which had a USB port for my portable hard disc of movies and general entertainment. It could have been worse but not much. Haast really is the back of beyond – my friends from the Falklands describe these sorts of places as “camp”. I’ll settle for crap.

Very glad to have made it here - Queenstown

So when the web site of road bulletins simply stopped mentioning the closure at 2.15pm we were up that road in minutes. A fine and beautiful road it was too. The old saying about the best thing about Haast being the road out of there was very true. Some 60Km up the pass we were in a queue for about half an hour to pass the landslide. It didn't matter at all. We passed through when our turn came. I could have got out and shook the hands of the road crew but I shouted my thanks instead – we were over the pass. Out came the sun – ahead the lakes, some breathtaking scenery again and the night in Queenstown.

Good night all.

Day 13 – Thursday 19th December

Day 13 – Thursday 19th December

No Whales for the Welsh - On to Arthur’s Pass

Funny old day. Last night the wind blew up and the heavens opened. So at around 2am this morning I was out in my boxers retracting our awning as the wind blew. Then half an hour later as the heavens opened out again recovering the washing. An extra night time shower I could have done without.

So when we awoke I ran the Whale Watch company expecting them to have cancelled but we were told to turn up at 12.15pm. So we hung around until 12.15 pm – turned up and they cancelled. Bloody great. So we have rearranged this to try again on the 27^th. That means doubling back on ourselves the day before we fly out to Auckland. It also means we have to get a shift on. So as soon as we were cancelled we hit the road and drove. And drove.

We are caped 15 miles beyond this

We are now camped up the West side of Arthur’s Pass – one of the few crossing points of the Southern Alpine range.  The drive through these mountains was spectacular. We stopped at Arthur’s pass village and walked up to a waterfall called the Devil’s punch bowl. The walk up to it was the Devil’s arse-hole – plenty of steps.

The Devil's Punch Bowl

After a feed in the village we carried and were advised that is we wanted to see keas there was a good spot at the lookout point some 6 miles up the road. Indeed it was. The Keas soon appeared. We were very good and didn’t feed them. In revenge the keas started pulling the silicone sealant off the camper roof! We escaped and headed on. www.rankers.co.nz reviews all the camp sites in NZ. You will see my reviews here too. We are now at Jacksons camping ground. They also have the GPS coordinates is you want a satellite view.

No bread = we eat your vehicle

So write this. Drink wine. Try and plan tomorrow and hot the sack. Nos da pawb.

Thing I learned today:

• Don’t mess with Keas

Day 11-12 Wellington to the South Island and on to Kaikoura

Day 11 – Tuesday December 17^th 

Wellington and on to South Island

We had a booking for the ferry this afternoon. That was very good because one of their ferries lost a propeller last month and has a result they have no further vehicle capacity. We were ok as we had booked months ago but we could not mess this booking about. Hence we had to be here today and in the port in plenty of time. We were.

But first we had a spare morning in Wellington and headed for the Te Papa Museum of New Zealand. As we there before it officially opened we went to the cafe as we needed breakfast. Chef needed educating and we soon had the a la carte option of bacon butties added to the menu. For some reason he added relish but close enough. Once we were fed and caffeined we split up and headed into the galleries. Unlike the formal museum in Auckland this was a more interactive hands on sort of place. We could have spent the day there. We didn’t have a day. The highlights we saw were enjoyed. Recommended.

Soon enough we were off in the van again and checked in early for the Inter-islander ferry to South Island. The next phase of the trip had started. South Island promised very different sights.

Nice Isn't it. I didn't take this photo ;)

The ferry is one of the great ferry journeys of the world as once you have crossed the Cook Strait you enter the Torry channel and head around to Picton. Imagine cruising down a Norweigan fjord with a few screaming kids onboard – close enough. You’re there. Hmm South Island looked different. It also looked colder and damper...

I had phoned ahead to the Petrous Bridge site which is run by our friends at the NZ DOC. Assured there was plenty of space I checked if the site had a 'dump station' as the one in the city hadn’t. Unfortunately it didn’t. So why do we need a dump station. Well our self contained van has small holding tanks – one for waste dish water etc and the other for the other sort of waste water... You get the idea. We had been using an iPad app that has all camp sites listed and reviewed and has GPS link. So this was put to good use as it also lists other useful camper facilities such as the dump station. There was one just off the ferry at Picton. Whilst Sarah and I have the dump station off to a 'fine art' (if you can use that term for this activity) the idiot in front of us there off the ferry didn’t. 20 min later we had our turn. 5 minutes later we were on our way to our first campsite in South Island at Petrous bridge.

I originally forget to add this jem of a photo of the train on the ferry

The site is recommended by our friends Scott Cook and didn’t disappoint. As I write we are parked up at least a 100 yards from the nearest camper and right by the river side with some inviting swimming holes for the morning bath. Chilli was forthcoming from the galley much to the kids annoyance and we ate outside. Fortunately the insect repellent seems to be working! There is certainly no WiFi and no mobile signal to tether to either. This gets uploaded when that changes. Maybe tomorrow but this is the quiet South Island. Who knows.

Things I learned today:

• The Inter-islander ferry carries railway carriages for a seamless North-South journey by rail. Unfortunately they wouldn’t let me go and visit the rail deck L But I went anyway ;) Mmm freight train on ship.
• The South Island seems a lot damper and quieter.

Day 12 – Wednesday 18^th December – seven sleeps till Christmas

On to Kaikoura

Nice here isn't it.

We went to bed last night to the pitter patter of the first real rain we have had since we got here. We awoke to a glorious day in paradise. If there is a heaven then the river side will be like this. For any of you who have seen the latest Hobbit 2 movie – this is where they filmed the river scenes where they floated in barrels after escaping the Wood Elfs. Our only regret is we didn’t have more time to spend here. Neither did we have the time to explore the Abel Tasman National Park not so far away. Maybe we all need something to come back for. Instead we spent a happy hour jumping off the high rocks into the deep river which wasn’t

The water was even deep enough for me to do this

that cold. As soon as we were out the midges sensed the lack of repellent and came in for the feast so it was a quick dash to get re-sprayed. We then had time for a lovely cake and coffee in the camp site cafe before we departed and headed South toward Kaikoura – the Whale Watching capital of New Zealand. That’s what’s happening tomorrow.

The journey south took us through the Marlborough wine country so a couple of suitable bottles were purchased to assist in my poetic licence with this current bit of typing. The drive South along the coast was stunning as we hit the Pacific – Turquoise glory! Along the way we stopped at a fur seal colony where given the time of year it was all going on. The boys were on fine form. We had lunch on the coast too, with the seals around us. Many photos taken. Fur seals – tick!

But never mind all that while we were looking at the seals a passenger train passed - the track we seems to have followed us all the way from Waitomo and hugs the road - no fence in between. Silly son was too busy talking photos of seals and failed to get one of this great train. Why the hell have I got a flight booked from Christchurch to Auckland at the end of this when I could have gone by sleeper train with proper observation cars. Hmm sure the family will be OK flying alone.

Careful son, he bites

We arrived in Kaikoura around 5pm and opted for the full facilities camp site. Pool and hot tub, showers, washing machines (I’m told they are called) and a sit down in the evening to write this up – wine in hand. I have realised that with a week to Christmas many friends will be stressed with crap weather and no daylight. So the photo here is just for you. Right I’m off out for steak and more wine. Whale watching tomorrow...

Things I learned today:

• In the North Island they call shopping trolleys trundlers and they live in the trundler park. Here in the South they are called trolleys and I found decent bacon. Civilisation restored.

Day 7-10 Caves & Montains

Day 7 or is it 8 - Saturday 14 December

Waitomo – The caves of (not so much) Doom

Before we got on the road today, I realised that given the time shift as I was waking, the IT Services Christmas party would be getting under way. A facebook message later and greetings were exchanged. A photo followed of festivities – complete with Santa hats. Seemed strange in the hot sunshine.

The other thing that happened was that I actually got the first 4 days of this blog loaded online after failed attempts to date. Wifi and data rates in NZ are neither cheap nor fast. I have a card that advertises that I can have a 1000Gb of data in a week. The truth is it would take a week for it to download a single gigabyte!

We departed for a 180Km-ish journey West to the village Waitomo – the cave capital of New Zealand. We had booked a “Black water rafting trip”. The idea being you cross caving with climbing into inner tubes to travel the underground river whilst looking at the glow-worms that illuminate parts of the cave roofs.

Everyone was very excited and we arrived the centre in good time to check in. Looks were exchanged by reception staff. I don’t think I struck them as a natural caver but by brother once commented that it was amazing the spaces I could squeeze through (UK mine exploration trips) – though I was always sent first in case I blocked the exit!

The motley crew in a dry section

We were duly issued with wetsuits everyone else’s was wet and smelly – mine funnily enough dry and hardly used ;). Then on with the wetsocks and wellies into a minibus and away. We were a group of around 16 in total representing many nations. The first step was to learn how to sit – I am good at that. How to make a snake of tube (so we all stay together) and then a practice of how to jump off waterfall backwards – using a wooden platform to rehearse – interesting but we managed. Time to go caving.

Anyone who has been real caving knows it is not a case of walk in and walk out. Unless it’s a public easy show cave. This wasn’t; first up a 1Km hike up through the bush carrying our tube – it was a hot and sunny day.

The Ceiling View

Wet suits are not ideal at this stage.  Then down into a small entrance near the stream bed. The fun started then and we had to crouch (in my case crawl) the next wet section to the first waterfall that was short hop into the tube. We were soon out of the tube again and walking though passage along a stream bed. We came to a section where it was time to put the lights out and look up. Sure enough the ceiling was lit by the LED effect worm larvae.  After a short talk about the lifecycle of a glow-worm it was onward into the cave. We eventually came to the second waterfall which had the added attraction of a pool nicknamed ‘the Blender’ next to it. The idea was to stay clear of it. Someone managed to fall in and ended up being rescued by the leaders. Glad to say it wasn’t one of us and we made the backward leap of faith in the tube (the adrenaline bit of the trip) and formed a train or snake as they called it. It was then time for the highlight of the trip as we all glided together with our lights off passing through various sections and seeing the glow-worms like the a stary night sky. Soon we came to another rapid section which we had to avoid on foot passing under a natural shaft leading to the daylight some 60 metres above. But for us it was back in the tubes for gentle paddle until we eventually emerged into day light in a pool near the car park. We were all alive and unscathed. Time to head back to cave base for soup, showers and dry clothes. See more of this via the company’s online video if you like.

Overnight we had booked the local rather upmarket “Top 10” holiday park – the only site in the village of Waitomo itself. Facilities including pool were spotless – it was hot and sunny and the only downside were that the campers didn’t have much breathing space between us. Time to befriend our Ozzie neighbours! Our plans after today were a little vague so we adjourned to the local brew pub opposite for a couple of pints of the local grog whilst we perused the maps. We decided to go with the plan made one Sunday afternoon last February. Tomorrow would head for the North Island mountains. These have names I don’t remember but the village has a great name of Whakapapa and the mountains are known to us geeks as Mount Doom and Mordor to those familiar with Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings films.

What I learned today:

• Glow-worms are not worms at all but they do light up a cave roof very nicely thank you.

Day 9 – Sunday 15^th December

The mountains – Tongariro National Park

"One does not simply walk into Mordor. Its black gates are guarded by more than just Orcs. There is evil there that does not sleep. The great Eye is ever watchful. It is a barren wasteland, riddled with fire, ash, and dust. The very air you breathe is a poisonous fume."

—-Boromir at the Council of Elrond

A glance at the map revealed no clear cut route South East to the mountains. The SatNav took us the direct way and that was basically twisty-turny A-roads in a journey that took over four hours including a stop off for shopping and lunch.

National Park Village borders the dual World Heritage Tongariro National Park (Tongariro Crossing) to the east and the Whanganui National Park to the West, in the middle of a true wilderness wonderland.  The Village is located near the base of Mt Ruapehu, at the intersection of SH4 & SH47 on the volcanic plateau, half way between Auckland and Wellington.  It boasts great views of all three mountains, Mt Tongariro, Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom in the Lord of the Rings filiming locations) and Mt Ruapehu -  a unique dual world heritage area, 300,000 years in the making. http://www.nationalpark.co.nz

We took the van up there we did...

The mountains were fine and we literally went to the end of the road which was at the bottom of the ski lift which for small fortune could have taken us further. Plenty of pictures were taken and jokes about how easy it was to get into Mordor after all. Time was getting on and we resisted the temptation of the chairlift and descended again to the village and a quick look at the tourist information office and a local waterfall.

The ferry booking was for Tuesday and Wellington still far to the South so rather than hang around the mountains we decided to push on. Off we set for another two hours driving. Whilst most

Mount Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom)

driving in NZ had been a pleasure the next two would be a slog. Imagine the A5 in North Wales – all very nice and pretty but a pain in the arse to drive on – especially say the bends around Betws y Coed to Cerrig y Drudion. Well It was like that for about 60 miles and then throw in some chipping laying every 10 miles or so – It is definitely chipping laying season in New Zealand. The van is well and truly pebble dashed.

In the end the mountains and hills subsided and we came river side to the city of Wanganui – another great Maori name. Thoughts of “free camping” after that drive were soon gone as I headed for the local “top 10” for swimming pools, hot showers and a fantastic riverside spot. With a fillet steak supper cooked up in the galley and a few bottles of beer life was good and Windy Wellington only some 200km to the South.

What I learned today:

• It is in fact very easy to walk into Mordor if you’re fit enough. My advice is drive.
• New Zealanders love their loose chippings on the roads!

Day 10 - Monday December 16^th 

Wellington

Not the most idyllic of camp sites

The rest of the journey South was a lot easier and we only came across one lot of chippings being laid. So at around 2pm we rolled into Wellington the compact capital city. Our Wellington Waterfront Camper park actually meant a large car park with portakabin type facilities. But location-wise if you don’t mind its lack of soul it was ideal. Wellington was on our door step.

Our first stop was a trip on the Wellington Cable Car. This is a cable car in the San Francisco sense of things – a cable drawn tram up to the Kelburn lookout hill and botanic garden. All good stuff and even had a cable car museum at the top. The botanic garden runs all the way down the far side of the hill so was mostly avoided save the level top section

Nice climb up inside this

which had a great tree to climb. The three of us were soon having photos taken up there. Sarah kept her feet on the ground.

I like trains

Once back down in the city all the shops were shutting their doors by 6pm. No made Christmas crowds or shopping out here folks – bliss. So how to spend the evening. Having just escaped Mordor we discovered the new Hobbit movie was on show in town. Given Peter Jackson lives here it was good claim to have seen it in his local picture house! We also had the chance to see it in 3D HDR. It was such high definition that I had mild motion sickness by the end. The movie itself was ok – well away and off plot from the book mind.

So to bed in the busy port side car park. In plenty of reviews of this site people moaned about the noise. It may well have been noisy. It rained – the first of the trip. I slept just fine thank you.

Things I learned today:

• A  cable car and single track can pass another at a passing point given enough pulleys for the cable.
• HDR movies are alarmingly immersive.

Day 6 Rotorua

Day 6 – Thursday 12^th December

Rotorua

If you speak to anyone who has been to New Zealand’s North Island then you will struggle to find anyone how had been to Kaiate Falls. On the other hand you will struggle to find anyone who didn't visit the “Thermal Wonderland of Rotorua”. It isn't known as Rota-Vegas for nothing.

Following Scott’s advice then if we were to visit just one of the many thermal attractions in the area then it was to be the Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland. Some 15 miles east of

Sure that isn't a hosepipe?

the town. It has a geyser called the Lady Knox. It is more reliable than old faithful in the USA in its timings. At exactly 10.15am  every day it goes off. When daylight saving times change so does this. Are you suspicious yet? It’s not as dodgy as it sounds. The thing is after a brief presentation by park staff a bar of soap is dropped in the hole and this triggers it! So 10.15 is the time to be there. In order to do that we had to be on the road by 8.30am at the latest. So at 8.45am we set off. We arrived the Thermal Wonderland late to an empty car park – result. Then discovered everyone parks somewhere else to see the geyser a mile up the road. So we moved there only to be met by them all coming back. Never mind we were told it continued to “erupt” for around an hour and sure enough it was doing. Now at this stage I think we should consider the word erupt. We know the volcanic scenes in our mind. Now imagine a termite mound with a fire hose squirting up it and you get the idea for the Lady Knox. Yes it was different, natural. But just not very big. So once we had enough of the smelly hot fountain we

The Champagne Pool

headed to the park proper.

This was a 2K walk through a cross between a lunar landscape and Dante’s Inferno. All very different. All very smelly.

Once we had done it all it was lunch in town and then camping overnight at the “Thermal Holiday Park”. In this case Thermal means the pool and hot pool are heated from the ground. Rotorua = ticked the box.

Things I learned today:

• Thermal places are smelly
• Diesel is half the UK price BUT anyone with a diesel vehicle pays an up front tax. We didn't have to and given the way the motor home drinks the stuff that is good news.

Day 5 = All aboard the motor home of adventure

Day 5 - Thursday 12th December - The Motor home aka campervan, the van

Having managed to stay up until 9pm last night I was confident of a good night's sleep. Unfortunately it was miss-placed confidence as I lay there. Then my stomach decided to join in the protest. Those of you who have been to Egypt with me will be familiar with Antinal. Two of those and a "Nightall" later and I kind of lay there some more. I some point I I managed to get into deep sleep. At 6am Sarah decided it was a good time to facetime home and wake us all up!
At 10am we were checked out of the apartment and were picked up promptly to be taken to the motor home depot by a van that had been dispatched. Once again a friendly driver. The depot was put near airport and was a busy place. Apparently the number of motor homes owned by the firm is in the thousands.

Paper work and a walk through the van's features and we were off! Two miles later we had stopped again - well the supermarket was practically next door. So once that was done we were really off - New Zealand here we come (again).
Thanks to some recommended reading from a friend (thanks Val Tranmer) I had obtained (via an Amazon import from author) two small books on New Zealand written by an American gentleman called Scott Cook and titled NZ Frenzy. Scott writes up locations that tend to be off the beaten track and a little bit different. The whistle-stop tour of North Island would begin with two of his recommendations.
Karangahake Gorge

don't forget a torch

It's tag line is Stretch Your Legs and Let the Scenery do the Rest. It's a talk back to the pioneering gold mining days - along the riverside - crossing swing bridges and letting you stroll (with a torch through the mine tunnels - some of these (The Windows) have side opening overlooking the valley below. Fantastic stuff - just the sort of good honest fun the safety police in the UK would have a coronary over. But is really is quite easy and the tunnels have no hidden surprises - any bits inside that have are gated off. This hour's walk was great. Suddenly with the sun on our backs and the stunning views the jet lag seemed to have gone.

 We actually had some energy. It was time to move on to our overnight camp spot as recommended by Scott.
Kaiate Falls
New Zealand's Department of Conservation (DOC) not only encourage you to play in mine tunnels they also lay on free overnight "free camping" spots as long as your camper is self contained - own water tanks for waste (which is emptied in lovely places known as dump stations...). This was such a spot were as Scott suggested was seldom visited by tourists - a locals spot in which come bed time we would be the only occupants.

We parked up and got our swimming things and headed down the path as advised in the book. What young fit Scott hadn't mentioned was that the path consisted of long steep paths and steps down into the gorge passing the lovely water falls until eventually at the bottom we came across several local lads who had just finished swimming in the bottom pool under the last waterfall. They were rather bemused to meet the family down there but all good blokes. We asked about the swim hole one demonstrated the rope swing out and the 25 foot or so so drop/jump into the pool and then how to get out again relatively safely. I don't think they expected us to be up to the challenge and they left us to it. I tried out the water first - cold but manageable. then off we went for the leap of terror. As usual Elin was straight in after me, followed by Tomos who having seen we'd made it was willing. All good so time to move it up a notch and go for the high rope jump. I don't know how deep the water was but i know that despite by

ungraceful entry there was still go sign of bottom and it seemed a while to break surface again. But grins all round we did it and had the pictures to prove it and terrify relatives at home.
It was then time to head up for dinner to be cooked in the camper. First there was the small matter of all those steps. Kids bounded up. Sarah and I didn't. Knackered.com
The camp car park was now empty so we had the place to ourselves all night and its one facility - the "long drop" toilet. think about it.
Our first night in the camper and after all that finally sweet sleep came easily and lasted all night. Bye bye jet leg ya bastard.
Things I learned today:

• Some government departments in some countries actually seem to work for the people's good - thanks NZ DOC
• In a long drop toilet you plop but hear no splosh...

Day 1-4

I decided to keep my diary on-line by way of a Blog. anyone is welcome to read it. I hope you enjoy it but don't care if you don't - just trying to keep something for me to read back in in older age.

Saturday 7th December 2013 - The Best Laid Schemes of Mice & Woods

But, Mousie, thou art no thy lane

In proving foresight may be vain:

The best laid schemes o' mice an' men

Gang aft a-gley,

An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,

For promised joy.

Robbie Burns

Having started planning nearly a year ago last week was a sudden realisation that it was all about to happen. The first few days a plan of military precision. Until we picked up the motor-home on Thursday there really wasn't any room for Mr F*ck Up.
We had to be on the flight at 22.00 from Heathrow to Kuala Lumpur otherwise the first week of the trip's plans would fall apart. We were getting there by BA Shuttle from Manchester at 19.00. That arrived at 22.00 and so we had two hours to connect with the luggage already checked through it should be easy. But two hours with a terminal change always nagged us. it didn't seem long but the airline do it this way. Last week the forecast had taken a turn for the worse and storms had battered much of the UK but no snow and the forecast for the day good; no worries,
A quick check of facebook in bed. There is Steve Mudge once again jetting around the World and now stuck in Istanbul because of the UK weather! What? "The Weather's fine Steve" I posted. What is he on about. An hour later the BBC news confirmed that actually he was probably delayed by an air traffic system failure in the UK. What? Read the article. Stomach lurches. Check flight departure boards at various airports. Mostly going, many delays look like the situation is getting worse.
A 3pm departure for the airport suddenly seemed like not such a good idea. No contact on phone to BA - all lines busy. Shuttle departures being cancelled. Decide to go somehow.
This is when having friends is good and good friends better. "Francoise what are you doing at the moment...". 45 min later she picked us and we were on the way but not really sure where. Various phone calls - told we couldn't just jump a train to London as not checking in at Manchester for non existent flight would result in all flights being cancelled. So head for the non existent flight - at least we could argue that in the airport and catch a train there if needed. So Manchester we went. Got a text from Steph & Sim = Sim offering a lift to Heathrow if needed so another plan on hand.
BA staff at Manchester announce that although all the other connecting shuttles had been cancelled our 19.00 maybe ok. Maybe?  Fortunately another staff member intervened and confirmed that in the circumstances we could go to Heathrow if we wanted under our own steam. Then another offer their 3pm shuttle was being replaced by bus did we want to go that way. Free bus - yes please. Also they "helped" by checking us in to the Malaysia Airlines Heathrow flight. Hang on why are all the seat numbers wrong and we are all over the place. Lots of £s had been spent pre-booking exit seats in the upstairs of the A380 and now we were at random points all over the gargantuan lower economy deck. "You'll have to speak to them at Heathrow sir". Sh!t
Our Airbus shuttle wasn't quite the A320 we were expecting to fly down on it was a decent coach with a good humoured driver and only about 18 passenger. We were off with a driver determined to beat the record of 3.5 hrs by road. he did it hooray. and only 6.30pm. We were in Heathrow 90 sooner than we would have been. Blood pressure slightly lower. So this was the new Terminal 5 we were supposed to land in. Trouble is our flight was leaving Terminal 4. Just follow the signs the airport web pages had said. The trouble is the signs are only there if you arrive by plane. Amazingly there seemed no simple way land-side to move terminals. Blood pressure climbing we eventually were told to use the Heathrow Express train - "doesn't that go to London". yes and no apparently. It actually also offer a free way of changing terminals. Free is good and two trains later we arrived terminal 4 still an hour earlier than we would have. Time to sort out those seat allocations.
Plenty of people in the queue (that wasn't moving) for check-in and so Sarah and the kids left in whilst I sent to the ticket desk to sort out the seats. "ah yes sir always happens with BA check ins. Hope the seats haven't been reallocated". Then on to explain that they would check if and when the check-in system cane back on-line - ah that'll be why no queues are moving then...Then it turns out Malaysia Air decided to do a scheduled maintenance without telling anyone at the great time of 3am in Malaysia - quiet then you see unless it's 7pm in London in which case Heathrow check-in you're screwed. Fortunately 20 min later things were back on-line and queues started moving. So then I got told my seats had obviously been taken as unavailable. That blood pressure must have been off the scale. Count to ten explain that we needed exit seats for two with the kids close and fair enough she managed it on the main deck - it would have to do. Collect the boarding pass at check in.
Finally some luck Sarah was at the front of the queue so off to the desk we went. "There should be seats moved for us" I say; "yes to not these ones he says". Panic. Then what seats were they. Turns out the very ones I wanted and had paid for months ago. Hooray top deck here we come.

See that top deck - that's us!

If you ever have the misfortune to have to fly economy long haul then top deck on the A380 with Malaysian is the least painful way to do it. They have a small economy section upstairs for around 60 people and you get to board with business class people and have the final indignity of walking best their lie flat beds on the way to your economy shed. But a better shed than the cattle herder's ranch downstairs it is. Also apparently no kids under 12 so no screaming babies.

We the one next to me was nowhere near this happy...

That is unless they are out of maybe space downstairs in which case up they come and guess what right next to me is one full of cold and in a foul good ah well!
They say the A380 is huge - maybe but I didn't see it. On the way back I'll ask for look downstairs to remind me of the little good fortune. Off we go. Take off is great fun they even have a camera somewhere on the tail looking down the plane so you get a view of the runway as you amble down it - or so it seems the quietest and fuss-less take off I have ever had.
Things I learned today:

• Heathrow staff don't know much about where they work
• An A380 maybe the biggest passenger plane it is also the quietest

Sunday 8th December - Airport KL

The shortest day. It lasted 16 hrs thanks to that 8 hour time shift. Plenty of it spent on that 12 hour flight. No sleep (because I wasn't in my bed). Good friendly service from the Malaysian crew. Apparently they all aspire to getting on the 380 so you get the good ones. Breakfast served at 7am UK time or 3pm Malaysian time - take your pick but the chicken biryani was delicious - as was Sarah's who couldn't cope with curry breakfast!Washed down with strong coffee it saw me through the last two hours to KL and off we got - gone 3C and cloud, hello 28C and humidity.
Immigration was painless and actually has smiling staff. The airport hotel that we'd booked also had a check in at the baggage hall all so by the time we had the bags we had the room keys. The highlight of the day was then being collected by electric buggy and whisked through the terminal via the connecting air tunnel to the hotel - great fun.

The buggy ride to the Sama Sama

8pm - a dip in the pool is very welcome after the last day and night. Then a great dinner at the hotel. Figuring going to bed at 10.30pm is good. You sleep a normal night and wak
e up around 7am yes? No actually.
Things I learned today:

• It is possible to have friendly immigration staff
• I like Malaysia
• It doesn't matter how tired you are, your body thinks it knows when it should be awake. It get's it wrong when you mess it about.

The Reception Area - the rest was good too!

Monday 9th December - Birds and Planes

So much for that anti jet lag plan. Zing 4am and I'm awake. 6 hrs sleep in two days - not good. Take solace in that it's 10pm the night before in the UK and plenty of people to chat to on-line! Turns out Elin is awake too and had the same idea. Other Woodies keep sleeping. We are in breakfast early and if not full of beans then at least full of croissants, fruit but even I couldn't face the curry this morning.
So what do you do with a day in KL and jet lag. If your sensible have an easy day and a good night's sleep. Or if you're us get out there in the heat, see something and then get on a plane for another ten hours.
The gentlest option was the bird garden. So one fast train and one taxi later there we were. The largest free flying aviary in the World. Hadn't figured it was on the side of a hill and any walk down means a walk back up - nice in the heat and humidity. The excitement at seeing a peacock in full feather wore thin after about the 50th peacock. But it was all nice enough and everyone enjoyed the bird feeding - from parakeets to emus! So what are the odds of getting shat on in a place like this? Guess who the lucky one was.

Nice.
The garden also had its own pack of monkeys and it was time to hold on to bags - they were definitely out on the rob.

Watch your bag Tomos

After lunch at the airport (BK for 4 for a tenner - bargain) it was time for a siesta. Well it may have been time for one but it didn't happen just a couple of hours of lie down wishing for 10 hours sleep. Whisked back by buggy it was time to check in again.
It would be good to say that this was all very easy this time. It nearly was except that for some unknown reason our seat allocations had once again been randomised! Fortunately we were there early enough to produce written assurances from the airline and successfully demand back the allocated seats.
No separate cabin this time. The Boeing 777 economy has a 34" eg pitch and our exit seat about 8 feet of space - great for people to come and stand in - nice being near the toilet queue. So not the nice airbus but ok and once again pleasant crew with plenty of free food and drink on offer. A 9 hour flight seems easy after the 12 hour the day before but after little sleep it was just another slog.
Things I learned today:

• You can avoid getting ripped off in KL Taxis if you can buy a voucher for the journey first
• It only takes a day to miss a bacon sarnie when you're tired.

Tuesday 10th December - We Arrive

Great views of Australia and Sydney as we passed over and then the Tasman sea and New Zealand. Another change of the watch by 5 hours and we were now 13 hours ahead of when we started. Confused body clock - you bet. At 1300 we were here. Auckland airport isn't that big but is busy enough. They have cheerful staff but your wouldn't want to mess with them. Beware of bringing muddy trainers - they may bin them! Airport procedures done in a good enough time and an efficient shuttle service awaited to transfer us to the apartment.
Check in and up we go. It is nice enough - two bedrooms and we opt for the twin room (space to sleep - no energy for anything else. Tomos grabs the double and Elin ends up on the sofa but tempting as these all are we elect to hold out a while to try and shift the body clock.
A bleary eyed trip to town and we look for food. That means some wrong turns on what should have been an easy walk. Nobody really knows what they want to eat and Auckland may well be a foodies dream but at 4pm the choices are limited. The mall foot court manages to get us all fed from various outlets - kebabs, Chinese and MacDonalds (nice one kids).
At 6.30pm we can hold out no longer. Three seconds after hitting the pillow we're out cold. A lovely 10hrs sleep is welcome.
Things I learned today:

• There are now two countries in the World with friendly immigration staff.
• In the Southern hemisphere the sun at your back doesn't been you're heading North.

Wednesday 11th December - Auckland

10 hours sleep may be very welcome but when you go to bed at 6.30pm it means you're awake at 4am - oh no not again. This time three of us are awake, The teenager has no such issues and is dragged out at 6am. At this time of the morning I discover that if you want a bacon sarnie then MacScumy is as close as you're going to get in Auckland.
We have a day here before getting the motor home tomorrow. We decide the Sky tower and the city museum are the best option for the jet lagged family.
The Skytower is 328M high. Apparently the tallest in the Southern hemisphere. The trouble is we've just come from KL and saw the Patronas towers (we visit them on 31 December). These are over a 100M higher and don't cheat by having a 100M of inaccessible spire above like this one. Still impressive enough though and up we went.
Apparently the glass we jumped on and leant against up there is 3.8cm thick and didn't break! Morning coffee in the sky; very nice.

Returned to the apartment for a sandwich lunch and low energy activity of writing this and the above commenced.
Fortunately the Skytower had let me spot the fact that although the city museum wasn't that far from the apartment. It was though up a bloomin great hill. Taxi arrived.
The museum was good and whilst Sarah enjoyed the Maori cultural exhibits I enjoyed the war sections.
Back the the apartment we hold out for an 8pm bedtime. Please let us get the long sleep we need.
What I learned today:

• In the first world war 1 in 10 eligible Australian men joined up. In New Zealand it was 1 in 5 - the highest commonwealth percentage.Many didn't return.
• Typing a Blog takes ages. Hope I can keep it up.